Underboop and short jeogori…Women’s Fashion Debate Beyond the Century

Will “Under Boop” be popular in Korea?
Jennie and Hyuna appear in Under Boob fashion
“Excessive exposure” vs. “Fashion freedom” controversy
Even in the Joseon Dynasty, “short jeogori” was popular and controversial.
Why is “Women’s Fashion” a big issue?

Underboob fashion, which reveals its bottom, is controversial as it shows signs of a trend. Excessive physical exposure of famous celebrities with great media influence was a problem, and a similar controversy occurred in the late Joseon Dynasty. At that time, among Joseon women, wearing a rich skirt and a tight jacket was popular, and the chest was exposed with a short jacket, which was criticized by the four masters. Experts diagnosed that there is a patriarchal view that does not view women as the subject of decision on the phenomenon in which women’s fashion is controversial.

◆ “Under Boop” is gaining popularity among Korean celebrities following overseas…”Excessive exposure” vs. “Interference with fashion criticism”

Korean women’s tops are getting shorter. Cropped top fashion that slightly revealed the waistline or belly was popular for a while, but now “underboop,” which even reveals the bottom line, is at the center of the trend.

Underboop fashion began in 2017 when foreign stars were introduced it. Previously, it was used for filming such as music videos and magazines, but recently, more and more people wear it as daily clothes. In Korea, the K-pop star group BLACKPINK Jenny and singer Hyun-ah have become the talk of the town with their underboop fashion, showing signs of becoming popular in Korea.

The problem is that the form of clothing that reveals the bottom line of the woman’s chest is quite sensational. In Korea, it was pointed out that excessive exposure is not appropriate as there is a strong tendency to imitate the fashion of famous celebrities. This is because teenagers with strong celebrity aspirations can imitate exposure fashion.

On the other hand, criticism has been raised that underboop fashion is a symbol of female identity and freedom, and fashion criticism can be excessive interference. Some argue that underboop fashion is part of the “Free the Nipple” movement. This is a movement that claims women’s right to take off their tops freely, and a fashion magazine interpreted underboop fashion in 2017 as an extension of “Free the Nipple.”

Recently, “Underboob” fashion, which revealed the underline of the chest, is showing signs of a trend./Picture = Group BLACKPINK Jennie Instagram Capture (left), Singer Hyuna Instagram Capture (right)

◆ A short jeogori similar to an underboop appeared even in the Joseon Dynasty…I can’t blame him for “yobok”

The controversy over women’s fashion also existed during the Joseon Dynasty. The hanbok, separated from the top and bottom, had a good body-recognizing clothing structure, and the length of the jeogori of Joseon women began to be noticeably shortened from the late 17th century to the 18th century, and narrowed down to the arms. By 1920, the length of the women’s jacket reached about 19 centimeters, smaller than that of an adult male.

This trend is related to the upheaval of society as a whole, such as the development of commerce and industry and art in the late 17th and 18th centuries of Joseon. As he pursued a new doubles beauty, the style of “Hahu Sang-bak” appeared. At that time, the trend of hahu Sang-bak fashion was led by gisaeng, which began to attract the attention of men of the four masters, but was also popular in the palace and the upper class. Hahu Sang-bak was chosen by Korean women because his style itself was attractive. Some view it as a means of expressing individuality in a male-centered society at the time when silence was forced.

The short jacket, which reveals the chest, was the target of criticism among the aristocrats. Yi Deok-mu (1741-1893), a scholar of practical affairs in the late Joseon Dynasty, called the short jacket “Yobok” with the meaning of magical. In his book Cheongjangjeonseo, he wrote, “Everything that is called a trend in Daejeo’s attire comes from the flattering appearance of the changgi, and the secular men are fascinated by the figure and do not realize the sensuality and recommend it to their wives to emulate it.”

Some people accepted the change in clothing as a fashion. Seongho Ik said in “Seongho editorial,” “As we are at the end of our lives, the wife’s clothes have narrow sleeves and short hem, like putting them on a ghost,” but added, “We can’t help it in the custom of Daedong.”

◆ ‘Controversial’ Women’s Fashion…Why?

Women’s attire has always been on the lips of the people and is a controversial figure. Experts analyzed that there are complex causes, such as the view that women are still viewed as objects of admonition, especially for the phenomenon in which controversy over women’s clothes is prominent.

Heo Min-sook, a female scholar, said, “In fact, even if it is less active and uncomfortable clothes, it is individual freedom to choose clothes,” adding, “The repeated debate on women’s clothes is because women are considered to be the subject of advice and admonition.” It is a patriarchal view that does not recognize women as subjects with complete decision-making power,” he pointed out. In our society, there are cases where women are interpreted as excessively sexual intention when they expose their bodies, he said. “The cultural context that has been evaluating women’s bodies for a long time has worked.”

Regarding the criticism that excessive physical exposure will have a bad effect on teenagers, he said, “What is really a threat to teenagers is sexual objectification through webtoons and games,” adding, “I wonder why they are only enthusiastic about fashion debates while not actively participating in improving sexual crimes.”